Q: Can I add cooked food waste to my worm composter?

I would avoid this – first of all there’s the trudge to the bottom of the garden but also this sort of waste has a tendency to attract pests if anything is going to. The best methods for kitchen waste are Worm Composting or Bokashi and for cooked waste Bokashi is the most flexible - the Japanese fermentation method is fantastic for all sorts of waste and can deal with bulk amounts in one go (unlike a worm composter). Shop our Bokashi Kitchen Food Waste Composters

Question 1

How many Subpods do I need?

Accepted Answer

The average family generates 7kg (15lbs) of food waste a week, just for reference.

We have designed the Subpod to be used for a family of up to four people, processing around 15kg (33lbs) of organic waste per week.

It will take from six weeks to three months to get your Subpod working at this capacity, depending on the season and how much you feed it. The worms need to settle in and build up their numbers.

Subpod is modular, so If you have more than 30L/15kg of waste per week, you can choose to connect two or more Subpods and create a bench seat, or install in separate garden beds.

Question 2

Do you have to reintroduce new worms after you empty the compost?

Accepted Answer

When you empty your castings and compost, the worms will not be with the castings, but where the food is, on the other side of the Subpod divider.

When the system is getting full, stop feeding one side. After two weeks, most of the worms will move to the other side where the food has been added. This allows for easy harvest of the castings from the unfed side.

Question 3

Does Subpod attract pests and rodents?

Accepted Answer

No it shouldn’t. Subpod’s built-in ventilation panels have small holes that keep out bugs, pests and rodents, whilst allowing air to flow in. Just make sure the ‘worm holes’ in the sides of the Subpod are covered with soil so nothing can sneak in.

Some pests are attracted to the smell of rotting food. By keeping a healthy Subpod, your food won't rot, it will instead be composted by your worms and microbes.

Keep your food scraps in a sealed container/caddy to make sure bugs don’t lay eggs in your waste before you transfer it to the Subpod.

Question 4

Can I add cooked food waste to my worm composter?

Accepted Answer

I would avoid this – first of all there’s the trudge to the bottom of the garden but also this sort of waste has a tendency to attract pests if anything is going to. The best methods for kitchen waste are Worm Composting or Bokashi and for cooked waste Bokashi is the most flexible - the Japanese fermentation method is fantastic for all sorts of waste and can deal with bulk amounts in one go (unlike a worm composter).

Shop our Bokashi Kitchen Food Waste Composters

Question 5

How do I encourage worms in my garden?

Accepted Answer

If you can get a healthy population of worms in your soil they will make you an ongoing supply of topsoil so to encourage them to breed avoid disturbing the soil where you can and feed them!

You can add garden worms as well of course but also making your own worm compost and adding this to the soil will also encourage a natural increase in your worm population.

Shop Our Wormery Composting Range Shop Garden Worms

Question 6

Which worms are best for composting?

Accepted Answer

Our composting worms are mixture of species (mainly reds and dendras) selected for their composting ability. Available with or without bedding. These types of worms are productive at consuming organic leftovers. Common garden earthworms don't perform as well in the same conditions.

Question 7

What food should I add to my wormery and when?

Accepted Answer

The main thing to ensure your worms work well for you is to feed them regularly with kitchen scraps. Usually adding waste every couple of days is the most efficient way of ensuring they are working. They don’t like a glut of waste, and underfeeding means you won’t get them working to their optimum level.

Question 8

When is the best time to feed live mealworms to garden birds?

Accepted Answer

Your birds will benefit from feeding all year round and live food is important. There are times of year when it is more important than other times though – in particular feeding adults and young in the breeding season is key as live food is critical to the survival rates of the whole family.

Outside of the breeding season because there is a decrease in natural food and invertebrates and there is no better food than live mealworms so if you want to all year round is a good idea. If not live mealworms are particularly beneficial when there is dry weather or drought and in the moulting season so summer and late summer.

Question 9

Why am I not getting any worm juice?

Accepted Answer

Usually a lack of worm juice is one thing… You are not adding enough waste into your wormery. After all 96% of vegetable waste is water and so if you are adding waste there will be liquid draining. It’s not good to add a glut of waste at once for your worms – they need regular feeding so adding waste every couple of days will work best for your worm and your liquid feed production.

Question 10

When should I add the next tray to my Wormery?

Accepted Answer

Assuming you are adding your food scraps every couple of days as you lift the moisture mat you will see the worms working just below the surface. (If you have to dig down to find worms you need to ease up on the food addition as you don’t want waste building up without the worms having time to process it.) As the waste gets consumed by the worms the volume reduces and it’s processed into black gold (worm casts) and liquid (which you will use as liquid feed). This means as you fill each tray it sinks at quite a rate so the time to add a new tray on top is when the tray the worms are working on is just about full and when the bottom of the next tray will sit on the compost below. At this point you take off the moisture mat, add the next tray and some waste and replace the moisture mat which always sits on top of the freshest waste.

Don’t worry if the worms don’t appear to move up into the next tray for a few weeks – as long as there are no gaps between the trays and you can see flecks of compost on and around the top tray all will be well. After all worms do not know about trays so as long as they are working on the compost just below the surface all will be well. Just occasionally it’s worth checking that no gaps have occurred between the trays where the compost has sunk as this will mean the worms have more of a challenge to get up and down between trays. If there is a gap – add a bit of waste into it to fill it in.