Question 1

How many Subpods do I need?

Accepted Answer

The average family generates 7kg (15lbs) of food waste a week, just for reference.

We have designed the Subpod to be used for a family of up to four people, processing around 15kg (33lbs) of organic waste per week.

It will take from six weeks to three months to get your Subpod working at this capacity, depending on the season and how much you feed it. The worms need to settle in and build up their numbers.

Subpod is modular, so If you have more than 30L/15kg of waste per week, you can choose to connect two or more Subpods and create a bench seat, or install in separate garden beds.

Question 2

What is a worm blanket? What is it used for?

Accepted Answer

Worm blankets are made of a water-absorbing, air-permeable and light blocking fabric.
They are placed on top of the worm bedding and have multiple functions:
The blanket minimises light reaching the worms, allowing them to feed right up to the top of the compost day and night.
Moist blankets prevent the upper layer from drying out, which can attract ants into the system Moist blankets help maintain the proper moisture levels for the worms. Worm blankets maintain warmth within the Subpod during winter months.

Question 3

What can be composted in Subpod?

Accepted Answer

You can compost a lot more in Subpod than in other worm farm systems. You can compost food scraps, including citrus, onions, and after four months of active use, even small quantities of meat, fish, dairy, and spicy foods.

Carbon items such as paper and cardboard, lawn and garden clippings, and a whole lot more can be composted in Subpod. You CANNOT compost non-organics such as plastic, tin cans, cigarettes, and such.

Question 4

Does Subpod attract pests and rodents?

Accepted Answer

No it shouldn’t. Subpod’s built-in ventilation panels have small holes that keep out bugs, pests and rodents, whilst allowing air to flow in. Just make sure the ‘worm holes’ in the sides of the Subpod are covered with soil so nothing can sneak in.

Some pests are attracted to the smell of rotting food. By keeping a healthy Subpod, your food won't rot, it will instead be composted by your worms and microbes.

Keep your food scraps in a sealed container/caddy to make sure bugs don’t lay eggs in your waste before you transfer it to the Subpod.

Question 5

How do I keep ants out of the Subpod?

Accepted Answer

Ants are attracted to dry conditions, so this is usually an indicator that your Subpod is too dry. Try wetting your worm blankets or slightly wetting your compost down. Aim for compost moisture levels similar to a sponge - only a few drops should come out when squeezed

Question 6

Can we leave the Subpod if we go away on holidays?

Accepted Answer

To keep the worms happy while you’re away, buy a pumpkin (or use one that is starting to rot), cut it in half and lay the open sides face down on the top of the bedding of the Subpod.

Then add a generous layer of dry carbon, either shredded newspaper, coir (coconut husk), wood shavings, crushed dried leaves or dried (brown) grass clippings on top of the pumpkin, and place the worm blankets over everything.

Question 7

My worm bin has fruit flies - what should I do?

Accepted Answer

Composting is indeed a complete ecosystem but flies don’t need to be tolerated.

The best product for dealing with them is our DE powder https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/products/diatomaceous-earth?_pos=1&_sid=fdc3360f1&_ss=r

or to sort it inhouse Eliminate large clumps of rotting food. When you feed large pieces of food to your worms, the worms generally can’t consume them before nature takes hold and the food starts the process of decomposition. When this food breaks down, it creates chemicals that fruit flies are attracted to. By getting rid of these large chunks, you are removing most of the suitable egg-laying space, which should put a huge dent in the fruit fly population. covering the waste with the coir/compost will help and keeping the newspaper on top is good as is the moisture mat. This will work to keep flies from getting in and laying more eggs, and it will also work to keep existing adults from getting out. Like a surgical mask, air and moisture will still be able to flow between the world and your worms, but the pests will be blocked from entering and exiting.

Make your own fly trap. This can be as simple as setting a little jar containing a mixture of red wine vinegar and dish soap on your counter. Within a day or two, you will start to notice a collection of dead little flies floating on top. If you’d like to try other trap methods, consider making a paper funnel that will invite fruit flies down into the vinegar but make it nearly impossible to fly back out.

Question 8

My wormery is too wet - what can I do to help this?

Accepted Answer

Cardboard is great for your worm composter (as is a sprinkling of lime mix) A ratio of 25-30% volume of shredded cardboard or equivalent will ensure the compost doesn't get too wet and there is air circulating. Avoid the really shiny boxes like soap powder and go for newsprint, egg boxes etc.

Question 9

Why have I got Fruit Flies in my Subpod?

Accepted Answer

Fruit flies can enter Subpod when you are adding your food waste. They can also get into the system before your food scraps are added to Subpod if there’s a loose lid.

The more thoroughly you stir your food waste into the bedding, the less likely you will have a problem with fruit flies and other insects. If you add more moist bedding (carbon), it’s easier to bury the food waste thoroughly. Make sure that the larger holes on the sides of your Subpod are below the soil line in your garden bed.

Any fruit fly larvae that finds its way into the Subpod will slowly diminish over time if the above techniques are used.

Question 10

What to do with worms that have gone down into the sump/ bottom section?

Accepted Answer

Sometimes some of your worms migrate to the sump which is mostly more distressing for you than them to be honest. They do explore their surroundings and they are usually fine in there as long as the liquid is draining reasonably regularly. The reason they go down to the sump on occasion isn’t really known – in winter it’s possible they are heading down there to keep warm as in their natural environment they do burrow deeper to below where the ground is frozen. Either way generally this isn’t a concern. If it is a real problem add some crumpled up newspaper and leave the tap open.