Question 1

Why won't my worms move?

Accepted Answer

If your worms are not moving to the next tray, there could be a few reasons:

Not enough food: If there is not enough food in the top tray, the worms may not have a reason to move up. Make sure to add food to the top tray regularly and in small amounts.
The waste has sunk. As worms compost waste the volume reduces and sometimes this can cause a gap between the trays which makes access to the next tray more difficult. Check for gaps and if there are – add waste into the gap.
Not the right type of food: Some types of food, such as citrus, onions, and garlic, can be harmful to worms and should be avoided. If you have added a lot of citrus onions and garlic to the top tray, either mix in other foods or remove some of them and replace with a more suitable foods for the worms.
Overcrowding: If there are too many worms in the bin, they may not have enough space to move around. Try harvesting some of the compost and removing some worms.
Temperature: worms are very sensitive to temperature, if the temperature is too high or too low it can affect their activity. Make sure the temperature in the bin is within the ideal range of 55-77°F (13-25°C)
pH level: worms need a slightly acidic environment to survive. If the pH level of the bin is too high or too low, it can affect their activity.

It's important to keep an eye on the conditions of the bin and make adjustments as needed to ensure a healthy environment for the worms.

Question 2

What is a worm blanket? What is it used for?

Accepted Answer

Worm blankets are made of a water-absorbing, air-permeable and light blocking fabric.

Question 3

How does DE Powder (Diatomaceous Earth) work?

Accepted Answer

https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/products/diatomaceous-earth?_pos=1&_sid=fdc3360f1&_ss=r

It works by absorption of oils, waxes and lipids on the coat of insects, to which it is applied, whereby they lose water and of dehydration. It is harmless to earthworms as they do not have a chitinous waxy coat. It could dehydrate other useful insects though, if applied in large enough dry quantities in the garden, but mixed into compost /soil or growing media which then gets watered frequently, in the quantities recommended does not pose a problem.

Our product labels comply with recent legislation and do not claim to control insects the DE CLEAN & DRY product is a Dessicant, Absorbent and Deodoriser.

Question 4

Are your wormeries rodent proof?

Accepted Answer

The great thing about a tray system wormery is that a: It's off the floor so very unlikely to be attacked by rodents and B: Worms compost waste as you add it so they really help to neutralise the odours. We have had no problems with rodents with Urbalive or other tray system worm composters.

Question 5

What should I do about ants in my vermicomposter?

Accepted Answer

Ants in a vermicomposter can be a nuisance, but they are not harmful to the worms or the composting process. However, if the population of ants is excessive, there are a few things you can do to reduce their numbers:

Keep the bin moist but not waterlogged: Ants are attracted to dry environments, so maintaining the proper moisture level in the bin can help discourage them from entering.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 6

Can birds on the nest eat mealworms?

Accepted Answer

As the adult birds feed their young they are looking for food rich in protein and liquids. Baby birds have no access to water and it’s needed to sustain life so this is provided by live food of one form or another.

We all know there has been a general decline in natural invertebrates so there are two key steps to take that will help. In the shorter and medium term supplement your birdfood with live worms (especially in the Spring) and for the medium to longer term plant native wildflowers, dig a wildlife pond and plant a native hedge to make a major difference for your birds and wildlife.

Question 7

Is my garden a great place for garden birds?

Accepted Answer

It depends… most gardens aren’t ideal for birds as it is difficult to find a lot of natural food if the garden is a mixture of paving and lawn. The perfect garden will be a haven for wildlife and in particular an invertebrate paradise… Native hedging, wildflowers, a pond will all make a huge difference as will feeding live mealworms – they are of course natural food packed with liquids, protein and also fat which will help your birds in really cold weather.

Question 8

How do I know if my worm compost is ready?

Accepted Answer

Here are a few tell-tale signs; The majority of your compost has a deep, rich color - it will also have the same texture throughout. Usually your worms will have moved out of this tray to a tray with fresher waste, this can also mean that you will see less eggs in the finished compost. There may also be a almost fluffy black top layer to the tray.

Question 9

How do I store Live Mealworms?

Accepted Answer

Don’t worry about your mealworms wiggling a bit – we promise you will get used to them and you will be rewarded by you garden birds.

The best way to start to buy live mealworms is to start with 3 x 40g tubs. The tubs have a serrated lid which is breathable and this means they are easy to keep. If you want to keep them for more than a few days – sieve the frass out and add some bran or mealworm food to keep them going, and pop them into a cool dark place (a garage or shed is a good option).

Question 10

Do woodlice cause a problem in my wormery?

Accepted Answer

No. Woodlice are primary composters so eat organic waste and produce compost so they can live along side your worm population. They can be a sign that your wormery is a bit too dry but not necessarily. By the way one interesting fact about woodlice is that they eat their own faeces for the copper content they contain.