Question 1

What do worms do in the soil?

Accepted Answer

They can consume their own body weight per day in food and so this means that they are processing 90 kilos a year, and providing you with several centimetres of new topsoil. They bring up rich minerals and nutrients from the subsoil and deposit them as castings on the surface making them readily available to our plants.

Physically as they burrow into the soil the channels they leave behind channels which aerates and drains the soil. If you have a good population of earthworms 5% of your soil will be made up of aerating earthworm burrows

Question 2

Are composting worms - Earthworms?

Accepted Answer

The worms you need for domestic composting are still earthworms but are often termed surface litter worms: These include Eisenia Foetida (Tiger Worms), Eisenia Andrei or, Eisenia Hortensis (often known as a Dendrabaena Veneta) They are all reddy brown in colour and they live in the soil in the surface layer of decaying vegetation.

You will find them naturally on the floor of a forest or they often migrate into your compost heap. They are all UK native species of Earthworms.

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Question 3

How Much Waste Can I Add To My Worm Composter?

Accepted Answer

Volumes of Waste

Question 4

Do woodlice cause a problem in my wormery?

Accepted Answer

No. Woodlice are primary composters so eat organic waste and produce compost so they can live along side your worm population. They can be a sign that your wormery is a bit too dry but not necessarily. By the way one interesting fact about woodlice is that they eat their own faeces for the copper content they contain.

Question 5

What Happens If I Cut A Worm In Half - Does It End Up As Two?

Accepted Answer

If you cut a worm in half you do not end up with two surviving worms – but the section with the head and the saddle back (the fatter pink part) will survive and actually grow another tail!

Question 6

How Do I Use My Worm Casts And Compost?

Accepted Answer

Using your Compost

The compost is very rich in nutrients and organic matter and can be used as an excellent medium to grow plants in. It is rich in soluble plant foods and its fine crumbly texture will greatly improve soil structure. It is not necessary to sterilise the compostbefore using it in the garden, its bacterial content comprises beneficial species which will not harm your plants. It can be

If you want to make your own potting compost try the following mix:

25% Worm casts
25% Coir or alternative
25% Perlite (or equivalent)
25% Sand

Liquid Plant Feed

Don’t forget that the liquid that you drain off from the sump

Question 7

What’s the difference between worm leachate and worm tea?

Accepted Answer

We often refer to the liquid that you get out of your worm composter as worm tea but technically it’s leachate – the run off from making your worm casts. Obviously it will have drained through the casts so it’s a great product but technically it’s a bit different to actual worm tea which is made from suspending the worm casts in highly oxygenated water (like when brewing tea.

Worm tea - The end result of suspending worm castings in highly oxygenated water (brewing).

Every wormery has good and bad microbes. This is ok of course, as long as the good ones outnumber bad. Leachate is made when the excess water seeps down through the worm composter into the collection area. The leachate should be drained regularly and if you are getting more than a few cupfuls a week, the composter is probably too wet!

Not only are you feeding the plant, but you increase the number of beneficial microbes in the soil, thus crowding out the bad. It has been proven that the tea, along with the castings, can significantly increase plant growth, as well as crop yields, in the short term (a season) and especially the long term over a period of seasons

Question 8

I Have Ants In The Wormery, What Should I Do?

Accepted Answer

Whilst ants don’t harm the worms as such, they will take the worm eggs—this will obviously affect future generations, so you need to get the ants out.

An effective treatment is Diatomaceous earth (DE) Powder. it’s non-toxic to kids, birds, and pets. And yet it effectively sorts out ants in your worm bin. As they move across the powder, it sticks to their feet and legs only to get into their joints and exoskeleton.

Buy DIATOMACEOUS EARTH here: https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/products/diatomaceous-earth

If you can find and remove the queen, the rest should follow her. Watering the wormery, to keep it damp, often encourages ants to evacuate the kit.

You can help keep ants out by smearing some Vaseline on the legs of the wormery.

Question 9

What do I do about Maggots in my wormery?

Accepted Answer

Maggots are the larvae of a number of species of flies, including the common housefly. The flies are attracted to food, in particular meat, and lay their eggs directly on the food waste. The maggots form pupae and hatch into flies. The whole of this life-cycle, on average, takes up to 10 days in warm weather and up to a month in cold weather. With regard to flies, you need to keep your food waste covered up. All flies lay their eggs on the surface of the food waste, but will not burrow. Make sure that you keep your moisture mat in place at all times (or you can use clean newspaper) to restrict access. In addition, you will need to keep any kitchen collecting bin (if you have one) covered, otherwise it is likely that you will transfer fly eggs into your wormery.

To break the cycle you can cover the top of the food waste in your wormery with a thin layer of garden soil or clean newspaper and refrain from adding waste for 2-3 weeks.

Flies prefer acidic conditions, so it is important to sprinkle a handful of the anti-acid lime mix over the surface of the food waste on a regular basis, for example, once a week. You are trying to achieve as neutral a pH level as possible so it is important to use equal quantities on a regular basis.

The other fantastic product for sorting out flies is DE Powder which is available on our website. It's non-toxic organic powder that helps control all crawling insects including flies bed bugs, fleas and ants.

Question 10

How do I separate my worms from the compost?

Accepted Answer

Harvesting your compost

If you are using a tray system and are feeding at a speed the worms can cope with, then the bottom tray should be ready to harvest when the top one is really close to full (not before).

You can dump the entire tray into your compost heap or border if you like but if you want to retain every single worm take the lid off and and put the bottom tray on top of the top tray and leave open to the air. Gently remove the top layer of compost until the worms are uncovered and they will bury deeper as they move away from the light.

Repeat until there is no compost in the tray and the worms will have wiggled through to the layer below. If some worms do go out with your compost into the garden this is no problem - red worms, tiger worms, dendras and composting worms are one of the 27 species of UK native Earthworms.