Question 1

How Long Does It Take A Wormery To Compost One Full Container?

Accepted Answer

Creating quality composts takes approximately 2-3 months. It mainly depends on the number of earthworms and the quality of 'food'.

Question 2

Does my food waste need to be broken up into small pieces before adding to the Subpod?

Accepted Answer

You don’t need to chop everything up small for the worms, but it does speed up the process so your food will break down even faster.

Composting will still take place in the warm, moist environment if you put in larger chunks. The worms will just wait until the microbes have softened up the more resistant pieces.

Remember to use the aerator when you add food so larger chunks are sent below the surface to break down, rather than drying out.

Question 3

Why is my wormery not producing worm tea?

Accepted Answer

Worm composters, also known as worm bins or vermicomposters, produce a liquid known as worm tea or leachate. This liquid is a nutrient-rich byproduct of the composting process that can be used as a fertiliser for plants. If your worm composter is not producing any liquid, there are a few possible reasons:

Insufficient moisture: The worm bin should be kept moist, but not waterlogged. If the bin is too dry, the worms will not be able to break down the organic matter and produce leachate.
Lack of food: The worms will not produce leachate if there is not enough food for them to consume. Make sure you are providing the worms with a steady supply of food scraps. This is the most usual problem.
Not enough worms: Leachate is produced as a by-product of the worms breaking down organic matter. If there are not enough worms in the bin, there may not be enough activity to produce leachate.
The liquid is being absorbed: If the bedding material is not draining well and is too compacted, the liquid will be absorbed by the bedding instead of draining out. Make sure to check the drainage and aeration of your worm bin.
The liquid is evaporating: If the bin is open or not covered properly, the liquid will evaporate before it can be collected. Make sure the bin is properly covered or use a worm composter that has a spigot for easy collection of the liquid.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 4

Will i end up with too many worms in my worm composter?

Accepted Answer

The worms will breed to match your food supply. They regulate their numbers and size to match the conditions. As the adults eat the waste and move upwards the eggs hatch out so to make best use of your wormery you need to add waste really regularly.

Question 5

How to look after my Subpod in extreme heat?

Accepted Answer

The Subpod lid is insulated to keep out direct heat from the sun, but if you live in an extremely hot climate, we recommend installing your Subpod in a shady location to prevent overheating or build a shade structure to protect it in the heat of the day. Keeping the worm blanket wet/moist will also help to keep your Subpod cool.

Question 6

What’s the difference between worm leachate and worm tea?

Accepted Answer

We often refer to the liquid that you get out of your worm composter as worm tea but technically it’s leachate – the run off from making your worm casts. Obviously it will have drained through the casts so it’s a great product but technically it’s a bit different to actual worm tea which is made from suspending the worm casts in highly oxygenated water (like when brewing tea.

Worm tea - The end result of suspending worm castings in highly oxygenated water (brewing).

Every wormery has good and bad microbes. This is ok of course, as long as the good ones outnumber bad. Leachate is made when the excess water seeps down through the worm composter into the collection area. The leachate should be drained regularly and if you are getting more than a few cupfuls a week, the composter is probably too wet!

Not only are you feeding the plant, but you increase the number of beneficial microbes in the soil, thus crowding out the bad. It has been proven that the tea, along with the castings, can significantly increase plant growth, as well as crop yields, in the short term (a season) and especially the long term over a period of seasons

Question 7

Which Worms Are Used For Composting?

Accepted Answer

Our composting worms are a mixture of species (mainly reds and dendras) selected for their composting ability. Available with or without bedding. These types of worms are productive at consuming organic leftovers. Common garden earthworms don't perform as well in the same conditions.

Question 8

What pH level should my wormery be at?

Accepted Answer

A well maintained worm bin should have a pH measurement between 6.0 and 7.0, which is perfect for many types of composting worms. Most can handle pH conditions up to 8.0, but its always best to play it safe and try to maintain a pH in the 6.0-7.0 range. The easiest way to do this is to add a handful of lime mix into your kit every couple of weeks. Don't worry about over liming as your lime mix is a mix of calcified lime and fibre rather than conventional garden lime which is too strong.

Basically to ensure your kit isn't too acidic look out for the signs of acidity - these are flies being attracted to the kit, a putrid smell, a really wet kit, or sometimes even swollen bits all over your worms (which is protein poisoning). If you see or smell any of these issues just add a few more handfuls of lime mix - add crushed egg shells for a similar affect and all will be well.

Buy Lime Mix Here: https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/products/anti-acid-lime-mix

Question 9

What material do you recommend for the worm bedding in the Subpod?

Accepted Answer

The ideal material for worm bedding is coconut coir. It holds water very well, which keeps the worms moist, can be a food supply for your worms and is also a good carbon source. Dried bricks are easily purchased in the gardening section of garden stores such as Bunnings and Home Depot.

If fine and coarse forms are available, choose the fine.

Follow the directions on the pack to pre-soak the coir with water until it has fully swelled and is uniformly damp, but not dripping wet. The worms can be directly added on top of this pre-moistened bedding.

To save money, shredded (non-glossy) paper or newspaper is another option, but not as ideal for initially setting up bedding as it clumps together when wet. Any carbon material can be used as long as it is damp.