Question 1

What shouldn't I feed to my worms?

Accepted Answer

Avoid grass clippings (as they heat up), glossy printed paper and cardboard (lots of chemicals) Non Biodegradables (of course), Dog and Cat droppings (can carry human pathogens) and raw meat.

Question 2

My wormery is too wet

Accepted Answer

If your wormery is too wet, there are a few things you can do to address the issue:

Add dry bedding: You can add dry bedding, such as shredded newspaper or dry leaves, to the wormery to absorb excess moisture.

Add more food: By adding more food, you can absorb some of the excess moisture.

Increase ventilation: Ensure that your wormery has proper ventilation. This can be done by adding holes or vents to the lid or sides of the wormery, or by propping open the lid.

Remove excess water: If there is standing water in the wormery, remove it by using a syphon or a cup.

Check the drainage: Make sure the drainage holes are not clogged and that the wormery is not placed on a surface that does not allow water to drain away.

It's important to keep in mind that worms need a moist environment to survive, but an excess of water can lead to anaerobic conditions that are harmful to the worms and the process. Keep an eye on the moisture levels and make adjustments as needed.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 3

How does DE Powder (Diatomaceous Earth) work?

Accepted Answer

https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/products/diatomaceous-earth?_pos=1&_sid=fdc3360f1&_ss=r

It works by absorption of oils, waxes and lipids on the coat of insects, to which it is applied, whereby they lose water and of dehydration. It is harmless to earthworms as they do not have a chitinous waxy coat. It could dehydrate other useful insects though, if applied in large enough dry quantities in the garden, but mixed into compost /soil or growing media which then gets watered frequently, in the quantities recommended does not pose a problem.

Our product labels comply with recent legislation and do not claim to control insects the DE CLEAN & DRY product is a Dessicant, Absorbent and Deodoriser.

Question 4

Is The Wormery Composting Method Different At The Beginning From Later On?

Accepted Answer

Yes, and it's very important to remember this. Give your worms enough time to settle and reproduce, don't swamp them with food from the get-go. You will know that the earthworms are well adjusted when they begin to process the food you give them more quickly and you will also be able to feed them more often.

Question 5

How do I harvest my worm compost without the worms?

Accepted Answer

There are a few methods to harvest worm compost without the worms:

The "bottom tray" method: This method involves removing the bottom tray of the wormery and placing it on top of the top tray and removing the lid. This will allow the worms to migrate downwards. The compost in the bottom tray can then be harvested without disturbing the worms.
The "windrow" method: This method involves creating a "windrow" (a long, narrow pile) of the worm compost on top of a piece of plastic sheeting. The worms will migrate to one end of the windrow, leaving the compost at the other end ready for harvest.
The "casting" method: This method involves allowing the worms to work the compost for a longer period of time, until the castings (the worm manure) have dropped to the bottom of the tray, where they can be harvested without worms.
The "screen" method: This method involves using a screen or sifter to separate the compost from the worms. The worms are placed in a new container with fresh bedding and food scraps, while the compost can be collected and used.

Question 6

Why use worms to compost.

Accepted Answer

In the UK it's estimated that households throw away about a third of the food they buy. Around half of the 6.7 million tonnes of food thrown in the bin each year is edible and the rest comprises waste such as veg peelings and food scraps.

All this waste then gets transported to landfill sites around the UK. These sites are nearly full and account for a large percentage of the greenhouse gasses that pollute our atmosphere.

Even if they centrally compost the waste it is still a huge waste to transport waste and compost back and forth from people's houses back to their gardens. Worms are efficient at turning all organic material into a valuable soil fertiliser called vermicompost.

Question 7

What should I do once I have filled one tray in my worm composting kit?

Accepted Answer

Once you have filled one tray in your worm composting kit, there are a few things you can do to continue the composting process:

Add another tray: If your worm composting kit has multiple trays, you can add another tray on top of the filled one. The worms will eventually migrate up to the new tray and begin processing the new food. NB: Check for gaps between the trays as sometimes as the worms work on the waste it reduces in volume and sinks so that it’s more difficult for the worms to move up. If this happens just add more waste into the gap.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 8

What should I do about mites in my worm bin?

Accepted Answer

There are a few types of mite that love a worm composting kit and this is all normal and part of the ecosystem. However, as with most things if they start to take over the kit this can become a problem. There are two main types – a reddish brown mite and a white shiny round mite. Both are tiny and if numbers become huge they eat the food and your worms will tend to burrow deeper into the kit and this in turn stops the worms from reproducing as effectively.

If you have a problem with a population of mites which seems to have gone mad the things to look at in your Urbalive or Worm Composter are:

Could it be too wet? Feeding lots of really watery waste (cucumbers melons etc) can cause this or is there a lot of water getting in (wormeries usually let some water in and this is fine but some shelter is very useful. The wormery needs to be damp but not soaking wet.

Leave the lid off on dry days or undercover and expose the kit to the sun where possible to help dry it up.

Once conditions are back to a good balance for your worms then of course they will be less favourable for the production of the mites so normal worm service will be resumed.

Question 9

The Wiggly Wigglers Catalogue

Accepted Answer

To Download a digital PDF version here

Or request a physical catalogue in the post visit the page belowhttps://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/the-wiggly-catalogue

Question 10

What pH level should my wormery be at?

Accepted Answer

A well maintained worm bin should have a pH measurement between 6.0 and 7.0, which is perfect for many types of composting worms. Most can handle pH conditions up to 8.0, but its always best to play it safe and try to maintain a pH in the 6.0-7.0 range. The easiest way to do this is to add a handful of lime mix into your kit every couple of weeks. Don't worry about over liming as your lime mix is a mix of calcified lime and fibre rather than conventional garden lime which is too strong.

Basically to ensure your kit isn't too acidic look out for the signs of acidity - these are flies being attracted to the kit, a putrid smell, a really wet kit, or sometimes even swollen bits all over your worms (which is protein poisoning). If you see or smell any of these issues just add a few more handfuls of lime mix - add crushed egg shells for a similar affect and all will be well.

Buy Lime Mix Here: https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/products/anti-acid-lime-mix