Question 1

My worm bin has fruit flies - what should I do?

Accepted Answer

Composting is indeed a complete ecosystem but flies don’t need to be tolerated.

The best product for dealing with them is our DE powder

or to sort it inhouse

Make your own fly trap. This can be as simple as setting a little jar containing a mixture of red wine vinegar and dish soap on your counter. Within a day or two, you will start to notice a collection of dead little flies floating on top. If you’d like to try other trap methods, consider making a paper funnel that will invite fruit flies down into the vinegar but make it nearly impossible to fly back out.

Question 2

My wormery is too wet - what can I do to help this?

Accepted Answer

Cardboard is great for your worm composter (as is a sprinkling of lime mix) A ratio of 25-30% volume of shredded cardboard or equivalent will ensure the compost doesn't get too wet and there is air circulating. Avoid the really shiny boxes like soap powder and go for newsprint, egg boxes etc.

Question 3

How do I know if my worm compost is ready?

Accepted Answer

Here are a few tell-tale signs; The majority of your compost has a deep, rich color - it will also have the same texture throughout. Usually your worms will have moved out of this tray to a tray with fresher waste, this can also mean that you will see less eggs in the finished compost. There may also be a almost fluffy black top layer to the tray.

Question 4

My wormery is too wet

Accepted Answer

If your wormery is too wet, there are a few things you can do to address the issue:

Add dry bedding: You can add dry bedding, such as shredded newspaper or dry leaves, to the wormery to absorb excess moisture.

Add more food: By adding more food, you can absorb some of the excess moisture.

Increase ventilation: Ensure that your wormery has proper ventilation. This can be done by adding holes or vents to the lid or sides of the wormery, or by propping open the lid.

Remove excess water: If there is standing water in the wormery, remove it by using a syphon or a cup.

Check the drainage: Make sure the drainage holes are not clogged and that the wormery is not placed on a surface that does not allow water to drain away.

It's important to keep in mind that worms need a moist environment to survive, but an excess of water can lead to anaerobic conditions that are harmful to the worms and the process. Keep an eye on the moisture levels and make adjustments as needed.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 5

What shouldn't I feed to my worms?

Accepted Answer

Avoid grass clippings (as they heat up), glossy printed paper and cardboard (lots of chemicals) Non Biodegradables (of course), Dog and Cat droppings (can carry human pathogens) and raw meat.

Question 6

What should I do about mites in my worm bin?

Accepted Answer

There are a few types of mite that love a worm composting kit and this is all normal and part of the ecosystem. However, as with most things if they start to take over the kit this can become a problem. There are two main types – a reddish brown mite and a white shiny round mite. Both are tiny and if numbers become huge they eat the food and your worms will tend to burrow deeper into the kit and this in turn stops the worms from reproducing as effectively.

If you have a problem with a population of mites which seems to have gone mad the things to look at in your Urbalive or Worm Composter are:

Could it be too wet? Feeding lots of really watery waste (cucumbers melons etc) can cause this or is there a lot of water getting in (wormeries usually let some water in and this is fine but some shelter is very useful. The wormery needs to be damp but not soaking wet.

Leave the lid off on dry days or undercover and expose the kit to the sun where possible to help dry it up.

Once conditions are back to a good balance for your worms then of course they will be less favourable for the production of the mites so normal worm service will be resumed.

Question 7

Why have I got Fruit Flies in my Subpod?

Accepted Answer

Fruit flies can enter Subpod when you are adding your food waste. They can also get into the system before your food scraps are added to Subpod if there’s a loose lid.

The more thoroughly you stir your food waste into the bedding, the less likely you will have a problem with fruit flies and other insects. If you add more moist bedding (carbon), it’s easier to bury the food waste thoroughly. Make sure that the larger holes on the sides of your Subpod are below the soil line in your garden bed.

Any fruit fly larvae that finds its way into the Subpod will slowly diminish over time if the above techniques are used.

Question 8

What should I do once I have filled one tray in my worm composting kit?

Accepted Answer

Once you have filled one tray in your worm composting kit, there are a few things you can do to continue the composting process:

Add another tray: If your worm composting kit has multiple trays, you can add another tray on top of the filled one. The worms will eventually migrate up to the new tray and begin processing the new food. NB: Check for gaps between the trays as sometimes as the worms work on the waste it reduces in volume and sinks so that it’s more difficult for the worms to move up. If this happens just add more waste into the gap.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 9

What pH level should my wormery be at?

Accepted Answer

A well maintained worm bin should have a pH measurement between 6.0 and 7.0, which is perfect for many types of composting worms. Most can handle pH conditions up to 8.0, but its always best to play it safe and try to maintain a pH in the 6.0-7.0 range. The easiest way to do this is to add a handful of lime mix into your kit every couple of weeks. Don't worry about over liming as your lime mix is a mix of calcified lime and fibre rather than conventional garden lime which is too strong.

Basically to ensure your kit isn't too acidic look out for the signs of acidity - these are flies being attracted to the kit, a putrid smell, a really wet kit, or sometimes even swollen bits all over your worms (which is protein poisoning). If you see or smell any of these issues just add a few more handfuls of lime mix - add crushed egg shells for a similar affect and all will be well.

Buy Lime Mix Here: https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/products/anti-acid-lime-mix

Question 10

What food can I feed to my Worms?

Accepted Answer

Worms are decomposers and they consume organic matter and convert it into nutrient-rich compost. They like to eat a variety of organic materials, such as:

Fruit and vegetable scraps