Question 1

What is a worm blanket? What is it used for?

Accepted Answer

Worm blankets are made of a water-absorbing, air-permeable and light blocking fabric.

Question 2

Do you have to reintroduce new worms after you empty the compost?

Accepted Answer

When you empty your castings and compost, the worms will not be with the castings, but where the food is, on the other side of the Subpod divider.

When the system is getting full, stop feeding one side. After two weeks, most of the worms will move to the other side where the food has been added. This allows for easy harvest of the castings from the unfed side.

Question 3

Which worms are best for composting?

Accepted Answer

Our composting worms are mixture of species (mainly reds and dendras) selected for their composting ability. Available with or without bedding. These types of worms are productive at consuming organic leftovers. Common garden earthworms don't perform as well in the same conditions.

Question 4

Can you put worms in a normal compost bin?

Accepted Answer

You can do - they will definitely help work through the material. They won't eat it as quickly as food waste, but they can work with the green waste. In a typical garden compost bin, we'd recommend starting with 2kg of Composting worms.

Question 5

Does Subpod attract pests and rodents?

Accepted Answer

No it shouldn’t. Subpod’s built-in ventilation panels have small holes that keep out bugs, pests and rodents, whilst allowing air to flow in. Just make sure the ‘worm holes’ in the sides of the Subpod are covered with soil so nothing can sneak in.

Some pests are attracted to the smell of rotting food. By keeping a healthy Subpod, your food won't rot, it will instead be composted by your worms and microbes.

Keep your food scraps in a sealed container/caddy to make sure bugs don’t lay eggs in your waste before you transfer it to the Subpod.

Question 6

Can we leave the Subpod if we go away on holidays?

Accepted Answer

To keep the worms happy while you’re away, buy a pumpkin (or use one that is starting to rot), cut it in half and lay the open sides face down on the top of the bedding of the Subpod.

Then add a generous layer of dry carbon, either shredded newspaper, coir (coconut husk), wood shavings, crushed dried leaves or dried (brown) grass clippings on top of the pumpkin, and place the worm blankets over everything.

Question 7

What foods do worms prefer in a compost bin?

Accepted Answer

Your wormery composter is particularly suitable for peelings and leftovers of fruit and vegetables, such as potato peels, apple cores, green tops of vegetables, etc. Don't forget tea-bags, as worms often reproduce in them. Just be careful not to put in the plastic types (usually in pyramid shape sold with more expensive teas). Coffee grounds and paper coffee filters are also suitable. So are left overs of cooked vegetables, crushed egg shells, paper napkins, dampened cardboard, dry baked goods and remainders of indoor and outdoor plants.

Question 8

What temperature works best for a worm composting kit?

Accepted Answer

The ideal temperature range for a worm composting kit is between 55-77°F 13-25°C (55-77°F). This temperature range allows the worms to most efficiently process the organic matter, reproduce, and thrive.

If the temperature is too low, the worms will become less active and the decomposition process will slow down. If the temperature is too high, the worms will become stressed and may die.

It's important to keep an eye on the temperature in your worm composting kit, especially during extreme weather conditions. In warm weather, you can place the worm bin in a shaded area or add a layer of insulation to help keep it cool. In cold weather, you can place the bin in a warmer area or add a heating pad or lamp to keep it warm.

It's also important to mention that the temperature can also be affected by the amount of waste in the bin, the moisture levels, and the ventilation. It's crucial to keep a balance of all these factors to keep a healthy environment for the worms.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 9

Why won't my worms move?

Accepted Answer

If your worms are not moving to the next tray, there could be a few reasons:

Not enough food: If there is not enough food in the top tray, the worms may not have a reason to move up. Make sure to add food to the top tray regularly and in small amounts.
The waste has sunk. As worms compost waste the volume reduces and sometimes this can cause a gap between the trays which makes access to the next tray more difficult. Check for gaps and if there are – add waste into the gap.
Not the right type of food: Some types of food, such as citrus, onions, and garlic, can be harmful to worms and should be avoided. If you have added a lot of citrus onions and garlic to the top tray, either mix in other foods or remove some of them and replace with a more suitable foods for the worms.
Overcrowding: If there are too many worms in the bin, they may not have enough space to move around. Try harvesting some of the compost and removing some worms.
Temperature: worms are very sensitive to temperature, if the temperature is too high or too low it can affect their activity. Make sure the temperature in the bin is within the ideal range of 55-77°F (13-25°C)
pH level: worms need a slightly acidic environment to survive. If the pH level of the bin is too high or too low, it can affect their activity.

It's important to keep an eye on the conditions of the bin and make adjustments as needed to ensure a healthy environment for the worms.

Question 10

What can I do about slugs in my wormery?

Accepted Answer

Slugs can be a challenge in your wormery so good to address them

Food Competition: Slugs do compete with worms for food resources within the wormery. Significant numbers of slugs can reduce the efficiency of your composting process by consuming a large portion of the organic material intended for worms.
Competition for Food: Larger slugs may predate on worm eggs and juveniles, potentially reducing worm populations over time.
Balance: A few slugs might not pose a substantial issue and can contribute to decomposition. However, an overabundance can disrupt the internal ecosystem of your wormery.
Disease and Parasites: Slugs can carry diseases and parasites that may not affect them but could impact worms or the plants where the compost is used.

Action:

It’s a good idea to check your wormery at night, to gauge slug population and activity.
Directly removing slugs can be effective for managing small populations.
Putting the legs in water or using copper tape can prevent slugs from entering the wormery.
Avoiiding excessive moisture can help deter them so adding a layer of cardboard is helpful.