Question 1

My wormery is too wet - what can I do to help this?

Accepted Answer

Cardboard is great for your worm composter (as is a sprinkling of lime mix) A ratio of 25-30% volume of shredded cardboard or equivalent will ensure the compost doesn't get too wet and there is air circulating. Avoid the really shiny boxes like soap powder and go for newsprint, egg boxes etc.

Question 2

My worm bin has fruit flies - what should I do?

Accepted Answer

Composting is indeed a complete ecosystem but flies don’t need to be tolerated.

The best product for dealing with them is our DE powder

or to sort it inhouse

Make your own fly trap. This can be as simple as setting a little jar containing a mixture of red wine vinegar and dish soap on your counter. Within a day or two, you will start to notice a collection of dead little flies floating on top. If you’d like to try other trap methods, consider making a paper funnel that will invite fruit flies down into the vinegar but make it nearly impossible to fly back out.

Question 3

Why isn’t my wormery producing any liquid?

Accepted Answer

Unless you are in a heatwave which can cause real evaporation the usual reason for a worm bin failing to produce liquid is that there isn’t the volume of waste going into the kit in the first place.

Over 95% of veg waste is liquid so as long as plenty is going into the kit as it breaks down the liquid will percolate through the worm casts and end up in the sump where you can use it diluted (about 1 part liquid to 10 parts water) as a general liquid feed.

Question 4

I'm looking for extra spare trays for my Can-O-Worms - do you have some?

Accepted Answer

I’m sorry we stopped stocking Can-O-Worms in 2013 so have sold out several of spare trays (although we still stock moisture mats, lime mix, worm treat and complete rescue kits. The best way to source hardware parts including trays is usually ebay or gumtree.

Question 5

HELP! My Worms are Escaping.

Accepted Answer

Worms in a wormery sometimes try to escape. If it’s just one or two adventurous worms, it’s best not to be concerned – all just part of life in a worm bin really. However, if you see worms clumping near the top of the bin, or escaping, there may be a problem brewing…

When you first get your kit the worms need to establish in the bedding so when you are introducing worms to the bin the best way is place them on top of the bedding. Let them dig their own way in. They build little tunnels that provide oxygen. Dumping lots of bedding or waste directly on worms can suffocate them.

IMPORTANT: Worms are sensitive to the weather. If a low pressure system or thunderstorm is moving in, the worms might start clumping and climbing. Watch for a while and see if this is the pattern. If so, do not worry.

Worms need OXYGEN!

Worms breathe through their skins. If they don’t have enough air, they will try and escape. Lack of oxygen could be caused by:

Overfeeding
Insufficient ventilation**

To check for overfeeding, dig around. Is there a lot of undigested food in the bin? You can take some out. Wait until they have worked through most of the food in the bin before adding more. If you have excess scraps, you can freeze them until later.

Your worm bin should have a lid. Keeping the lid on discourages escapees.

Excess Moisture

The cure for a wet bin is to add dry bedding. Shredded newspaper is perfect; so is peat moss, coconut coir and shredded cardboard. Add and stir gently. Lime mix and worm treat also absorb excess moisture.

Recent Changes

If the worms are in escape mode, reduce nitrogen-rich foods, which includes grass clippings and acidic foods (tomatoes, onions, pineapples, excessive coffee grounds, tea bags citrus). Once you have the balance of the worm composting back to normal you can increase these types of waste again.

Sometimes people forget to feed their worms. Starvation will drive the worms to greener pastures. If you go on holiday for several weeks it’s worth saving up some scraps in the fridge or freezer. Ask a friend to feed the worms twice a week or so. Maybe you’re eating out a lot and aren’t generating any kitchen scraps. You can always ask a neighbour save their kitchen scraps for you, and save left-over salads (wash off the dressing).

Your worm composter pH

Baby Worms

Quick Fix: TURN THE LIGHT ON!

Question 6

How do I separate my worms from the compost?

Accepted Answer

Harvesting your compost

If you are using a tray system and are feeding at a speed the worms can cope with, then the bottom tray should be ready to harvest when the top one is really close to full (not before).

You can dump the entire tray into your compost heap or border if you like but if you want to retain every single worm take the lid off and and put the bottom tray on top of the top tray and leave open to the air. Gently remove the top layer of compost until the worms are uncovered and they will bury deeper as they move away from the light.

Repeat until there is no compost in the tray and the worms will have wiggled through to the layer below. If some worms do go out with your compost into the garden this is no problem - red worms, tiger worms, dendras and composting worms are one of the 27 species of UK native Earthworms.

Question 7

Why use worms to compost.

Accepted Answer

In the UK it's estimated that households throw away about a third of the food they buy. Around half of the 6.7 million tonnes of food thrown in the bin each year is edible and the rest comprises waste such as veg peelings and food scraps.

All this waste then gets transported to landfill sites around the UK. These sites are nearly full and account for a large percentage of the greenhouse gasses that pollute our atmosphere.

Even if they centrally compost the waste it is still a huge waste to transport waste and compost back and forth from people's houses back to their gardens. Worms are efficient at turning all organic material into a valuable soil fertiliser called vermicompost.

Question 8

Do woodlice cause a problem in my wormery?

Accepted Answer

No. Woodlice are primary composters so eat organic waste and produce compost so they can live along side your worm population. They can be a sign that your wormery is a bit too dry but not necessarily. By the way one interesting fact about woodlice is that they eat their own faeces for the copper content they contain.

Question 9

Are composting worms - Earthworms?

Accepted Answer

The worms you need for domestic composting are still earthworms but are often termed surface litter worms: These include Eisenia Foetida (Tiger Worms), Eisenia Andrei or, Eisenia Hortensis (often known as a Dendrabaena Veneta) They are all reddy brown in colour and they live in the soil in the surface layer of decaying vegetation.

You will find them naturally on the floor of a forest or they often migrate into your compost heap. They are all UK native species of Earthworms.

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