Question 1

What Should I Do If I Have A Tray Full?

Accepted Answer

Once you fill one tray and it looks like worms soon will not have anything to eat, load the next / new tray above the old one. As there are holes in each tray the worms just migrate through these into the tray above. Prepare the new tray in the same way as you did the old tray.

Please note if you are using a moisture mat this needs always to go on top of the freshest waste – so if you are adding a new tray remove the moisture mat put the new tray on top of the waste in the existing tray and add waste into the new tray and the moisture mat on top of the fresh waste.

The worms will go up and down through the holes – you will see evidence of this with tiny specs of dark specs of compost. One thing to note is that sometimes as the worms work through the waste and reduce the volume which then means the compost sinks inbetween the trays meaning it’s more difficult for the worms to work their way up and down so it’s worth checking for gaps every now and again and if there are it’s simple just pop a bit of waste into the gap.

Once you have reached the top of the top tray (which will take some time as the worms reduce the volume on a daily basis) then most of the worms will have left the bottom tray and this compost can be used. Empty it out and then this tray can be used to go on top of the working tray so that the worms continue working their way up and you are rotating the trays.

There is bound to be some worms in the compost that you use – this is fine but if you want them all back in your wormery – just expose the compost to light and skim off the compost. The worms move away from the light and so will form a pile which you can pop back into your worm bin.**

We sell additional trays for urbalive composters here https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/spares-and-extras

Question 2

How To Look After My Worms

Accepted Answer

Worms need nurturing just like all of us. There are a few basic requirements that will ensure they eat and breed and therefore make compost for you.

1: They need food. As with most of us worms like a varied diet, lots of different foods are great for worms and a few of their favourites are veggie waste, coffee ground and banana skins. They aren’t too fussy but it the waste is too wet there tends to be a lack of air.

2: They need moisture. This is usually not worth thinking about as most of your kitchen waste is actually water so unless you live in Alice Springs you have no need to concern yourself about adding water. Do keep your moisture mat or similar on top of the freshest waste as this helps to maintain moisture and soak up excess.

3: Air – Your worm bin isn’t airtight so as long as the waste doesn’t get too wet there will be air circulating. If there is any doubt every now and again it’s worth adding a layer of shredded cardboard which really helps airflow.

4: A neutral pH level… Most waste is acidic and if there is too much acidity this can affect your worms. You can tell if there is a problem if the kit smells or there are flies attracted to it. Adding a handful of the lime mix that came with your kit will sort this out and adding crushed eggshells will also help the balance.

Worm kits are pretty simple – as long as the conditions are beneficial to your worms they will stay and compost for you. Remember your worm composting kit isn’t a waste disposal machine, it’s a complete ecosystem that turns kitchen waste into the best compost and liquid feed in the World!

Watch this short video on how to look after your worms.TIP: Click on the YouTube icon in the video to watch full screen

Question 3

Is The Wormery Composting Method Different At The Beginning From Later On?

Accepted Answer

Yes, and it's very important to remember this. Give your worms enough time to settle and reproduce, don't swamp them with food from the get-go. You will know that the earthworms are well adjusted when they begin to process the food you give them more quickly and you will also be able to feed them more often.

Question 4

What shouldn't I feed to my worms?

Accepted Answer

Avoid grass clippings (as they heat up), glossy printed paper and cardboard (lots of chemicals) Non Biodegradables (of course), Dog and Cat droppings (can carry human pathogens) and raw meat.

Question 5

How does DE Powder (Diatomaceous Earth) work?

Accepted Answer

https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/products/diatomaceous-earth?_pos=1&_sid=fdc3360f1&_ss=r

It works by absorption of oils, waxes and lipids on the coat of insects, to which it is applied, whereby they lose water and of dehydration. It is harmless to earthworms as they do not have a chitinous waxy coat. It could dehydrate other useful insects though, if applied in large enough dry quantities in the garden, but mixed into compost /soil or growing media which then gets watered frequently, in the quantities recommended does not pose a problem.

Our product labels comply with recent legislation and do not claim to control insects the DE CLEAN & DRY product is a Dessicant, Absorbent and Deodoriser.

Question 6

What should I do about mites in my worm bin?

Accepted Answer

There are a few types of mite that love a worm composting kit and this is all normal and part of the ecosystem. However, as with most things if they start to take over the kit this can become a problem. There are two main types – a reddish brown mite and a white shiny round mite. Both are tiny and if numbers become huge they eat the food and your worms will tend to burrow deeper into the kit and this in turn stops the worms from reproducing as effectively.

If you have a problem with a population of mites which seems to have gone mad the things to look at in your Urbalive or Worm Composter are:

Could it be too wet? Feeding lots of really watery waste (cucumbers melons etc) can cause this or is there a lot of water getting in (wormeries usually let some water in and this is fine but some shelter is very useful. The wormery needs to be damp but not soaking wet.

Leave the lid off on dry days or undercover and expose the kit to the sun where possible to help dry it up.

Once conditions are back to a good balance for your worms then of course they will be less favourable for the production of the mites so normal worm service will be resumed.

Question 7

How do I harvest my worm compost without the worms?

Accepted Answer

There are a few methods to harvest worm compost without the worms:

The "bottom tray" method: This method involves removing the bottom tray of the wormery and placing it on top of the top tray and removing the lid. This will allow the worms to migrate downwards. The compost in the bottom tray can then be harvested without disturbing the worms.
The "windrow" method: This method involves creating a "windrow" (a long, narrow pile) of the worm compost on top of a piece of plastic sheeting. The worms will migrate to one end of the windrow, leaving the compost at the other end ready for harvest.
The "casting" method: This method involves allowing the worms to work the compost for a longer period of time, until the castings (the worm manure) have dropped to the bottom of the tray, where they can be harvested without worms.
The "screen" method: This method involves using a screen or sifter to separate the compost from the worms. The worms are placed in a new container with fresh bedding and food scraps, while the compost can be collected and used.

Question 8

Why use worms to compost.

Accepted Answer

In the UK it's estimated that households throw away about a third of the food they buy. Around half of the 6.7 million tonnes of food thrown in the bin each year is edible and the rest comprises waste such as veg peelings and food scraps.

All this waste then gets transported to landfill sites around the UK. These sites are nearly full and account for a large percentage of the greenhouse gasses that pollute our atmosphere.

Even if they centrally compost the waste it is still a huge waste to transport waste and compost back and forth from people's houses back to their gardens. Worms are efficient at turning all organic material into a valuable soil fertiliser called vermicompost.

Question 9

Why have I got Fruit Flies in my Subpod?

Accepted Answer

Fruit flies can enter Subpod when you are adding your food waste. They can also get into the system before your food scraps are added to Subpod if there’s a loose lid.

The more thoroughly you stir your food waste into the bedding, the less likely you will have a problem with fruit flies and other insects. If you add more moist bedding (carbon), it’s easier to bury the food waste thoroughly. Make sure that the larger holes on the sides of your Subpod are below the soil line in your garden bed.

Any fruit fly larvae that finds its way into the Subpod will slowly diminish over time if the above techniques are used.

Question 10

What should I do once I have filled one tray in my worm composting kit?

Accepted Answer

Once you have filled one tray in your worm composting kit, there are a few things you can do to continue the composting process:

Add another tray: If your worm composting kit has multiple trays, you can add another tray on top of the filled one. The worms will eventually migrate up to the new tray and begin processing the new food. NB: Check for gaps between the trays as sometimes as the worms work on the waste it reduces in volume and sinks so that it’s more difficult for the worms to move up. If this happens just add more waste into the gap.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting