Question 1

My wormery is too wet

Accepted Answer

If your wormery is too wet, there are a few things you can do to address the issue:

Add dry bedding: You can add dry bedding, such as shredded newspaper or dry leaves, to the wormery to absorb excess moisture.

Add more food: By adding more food, you can absorb some of the excess moisture.

Increase ventilation: Ensure that your wormery has proper ventilation. This can be done by adding holes or vents to the lid or sides of the wormery, or by propping open the lid.

Remove excess water: If there is standing water in the wormery, remove it by using a syphon or a cup.

Check the drainage: Make sure the drainage holes are not clogged and that the wormery is not placed on a surface that does not allow water to drain away.

It's important to keep in mind that worms need a moist environment to survive, but an excess of water can lead to anaerobic conditions that are harmful to the worms and the process. Keep an eye on the moisture levels and make adjustments as needed.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 2

What temperature works best for a worm composting kit?

Accepted Answer

The ideal temperature range for a worm composting kit is between 55-77°F 13-25°C (55-77°F). This temperature range allows the worms to most efficiently process the organic matter, reproduce, and thrive.

If the temperature is too low, the worms will become less active and the decomposition process will slow down. If the temperature is too high, the worms will become stressed and may die.

It's important to keep an eye on the temperature in your worm composting kit, especially during extreme weather conditions. In warm weather, you can place the worm bin in a shaded area or add a layer of insulation to help keep it cool. In cold weather, you can place the bin in a warmer area or add a heating pad or lamp to keep it warm.

It's also important to mention that the temperature can also be affected by the amount of waste in the bin, the moisture levels, and the ventilation. It's crucial to keep a balance of all these factors to keep a healthy environment for the worms.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 3

Why won't my worms move?

Accepted Answer

If your worms are not moving to the next tray, there could be a few reasons:

Not enough food: If there is not enough food in the top tray, the worms may not have a reason to move up. Make sure to add food to the top tray regularly and in small amounts.
The waste has sunk. As worms compost waste the volume reduces and sometimes this can cause a gap between the trays which makes access to the next tray more difficult. Check for gaps and if there are – add waste into the gap.
Not the right type of food: Some types of food, such as citrus, onions, and garlic, can be harmful to worms and should be avoided. If you have added a lot of citrus onions and garlic to the top tray, either mix in other foods or remove some of them and replace with a more suitable foods for the worms.
Overcrowding: If there are too many worms in the bin, they may not have enough space to move around. Try harvesting some of the compost and removing some worms.
Temperature: worms are very sensitive to temperature, if the temperature is too high or too low it can affect their activity. Make sure the temperature in the bin is within the ideal range of 55-77°F (13-25°C)
pH level: worms need a slightly acidic environment to survive. If the pH level of the bin is too high or too low, it can affect their activity.

It's important to keep an eye on the conditions of the bin and make adjustments as needed to ensure a healthy environment for the worms.

Question 4

What is the problem with woodlice in your wormery

Accepted Answer

Woodlice, also known as sowbugs or pillbugs, are crustaceans that are commonly found in damp environments, such as gardens and compost piles. While they are not harmful to the worms or the composting process in a wormery, they can be a nuisance. They can consume some of the food scraps intended for the worms, and their presence may indicate that the wormery is too moist and not draining properly.

Additionally, an excessive population of woodlice in your wormery may indicate that the wormery is overcrowded and not receiving enough oxygen, which can lead to anaerobic conditions and unpleasant odours.

If you find that you have a problem with woodlice in your wormery, there’s a few things you can do:

Reduce the moisture in the wormery by adding more bedding material or by adjusting the ventilation.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 5

What do I do about Maggots in my wormery?

Accepted Answer

Maggots are the larvae of a number of species of flies, including the common housefly. The flies are attracted to food, in particular meat, and lay their eggs directly on the food waste. The maggots form pupae and hatch into flies. The whole of this life-cycle, on average, takes up to 10 days in warm weather and up to a month in cold weather. With regard to flies, you need to keep your food waste covered up. All flies lay their eggs on the surface of the food waste, but will not burrow. Make sure that you keep your moisture mat in place at all times (or you can use clean newspaper) to restrict access. In addition, you will need to keep any kitchen collecting bin (if you have one) covered, otherwise it is likely that you will transfer fly eggs into your wormery.

To break the cycle you can cover the top of the food waste in your wormery with a thin layer of garden soil or clean newspaper and refrain from adding waste for 2-3 weeks.

Flies prefer acidic conditions, so it is important to sprinkle a handful of the anti-acid lime mix over the surface of the food waste on a regular basis, for example, once a week. You are trying to achieve as neutral a pH level as possible so it is important to use equal quantities on a regular basis.

The other fantastic product for sorting out flies is DE Powder which is available on our website. It's non-toxic organic powder that helps control all crawling insects including flies bed bugs, fleas and ants.

Question 6

How do I separate my worms from the compost?

Accepted Answer

Harvesting your compost

If you are using a tray system and are feeding at a speed the worms can cope with, then the bottom tray should be ready to harvest when the top one is really close to full (not before).

You can dump the entire tray into your compost heap or border if you like but if you want to retain every single worm take the lid off and and put the bottom tray on top of the top tray and leave open to the air. Gently remove the top layer of compost until the worms are uncovered and they will bury deeper as they move away from the light.

Repeat until there is no compost in the tray and the worms will have wiggled through to the layer below. If some worms do go out with your compost into the garden this is no problem - red worms, tiger worms, dendras and composting worms are one of the 27 species of UK native Earthworms.

Question 7

I Have Ants In The Wormery, What Should I Do?

Accepted Answer

Whilst ants don’t harm the worms as such, they will take the worm eggs—this will obviously affect future generations, so you need to get the ants out.

An effective treatment is Diatomaceous earth (DE) Powder. it’s non-toxic to kids, birds, and pets. And yet it effectively sorts out ants in your worm bin. As they move across the powder, it sticks to their feet and legs only to get into their joints and exoskeleton.

Buy DIATOMACEOUS EARTH here: https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/products/diatomaceous-earth

If you can find and remove the queen, the rest should follow her. Watering the wormery, to keep it damp, often encourages ants to evacuate the kit.

You can help keep ants out by smearing some Vaseline on the legs of the wormery.

Question 8

Why isn’t my wormery producing any liquid?

Accepted Answer

Unless you are in a heatwave which can cause real evaporation the usual reason for a worm bin failing to produce liquid is that there isn’t the volume of waste going into the kit in the first place.

Over 95% of veg waste is liquid so as long as plenty is going into the kit as it breaks down the liquid will percolate through the worm casts and end up in the sump where you can use it diluted (about 1 part liquid to 10 parts water) as a general liquid feed.

Question 9

What Are The Worms Favourite Foods?

Accepted Answer

A Worm’s Diet…

Question 10

I Have Some Tiny, White Worms In My Bin, Are They Babies Or A Problem?

Accepted Answer

They are not baby composting worms as these are the same colour as the worms, only smaller. Instead, they are a harmless parasite called entrachyadid. Most worm composting systems have them.

However,they are more able to withstand wet and acid conditions than your standard Wigglers so, if they seem to be growing in numbers, check that the bin is not waterlogged and mix in a little Lime Mix to increase the pH. They can often be lured onto a piece of moist bread for easy removal.

They make a great treat for your garden birds!