Question 1

My wormery is too wet

Accepted Answer

If your wormery is too wet, there are a few things you can do to address the issue:

Add dry bedding: You can add dry bedding, such as shredded newspaper or dry leaves, to the wormery to absorb excess moisture.

Add more food: By adding more food, you can absorb some of the excess moisture.

Increase ventilation: Ensure that your wormery has proper ventilation. This can be done by adding holes or vents to the lid or sides of the wormery, or by propping open the lid.

Remove excess water: If there is standing water in the wormery, remove it by using a syphon or a cup.

Check the drainage: Make sure the drainage holes are not clogged and that the wormery is not placed on a surface that does not allow water to drain away.

It's important to keep in mind that worms need a moist environment to survive, but an excess of water can lead to anaerobic conditions that are harmful to the worms and the process. Keep an eye on the moisture levels and make adjustments as needed.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 2

What should I do about mites in my worm bin?

Accepted Answer

There are a few types of mite that love a worm composting kit and this is all normal and part of the ecosystem. However, as with most things if they start to take over the kit this can become a problem. There are two main types – a reddish brown mite and a white shiny round mite. Both are tiny and if numbers become huge they eat the food and your worms will tend to burrow deeper into the kit and this in turn stops the worms from reproducing as effectively.

If you have a problem with a population of mites which seems to have gone mad the things to look at in your Urbalive or Worm Composter are:

Could it be too wet? Feeding lots of really watery waste (cucumbers melons etc) can cause this or is there a lot of water getting in (wormeries usually let some water in and this is fine but some shelter is very useful. The wormery needs to be damp but not soaking wet.

Leave the lid off on dry days or undercover and expose the kit to the sun where possible to help dry it up.

Once conditions are back to a good balance for your worms then of course they will be less favourable for the production of the mites so normal worm service will be resumed.

Question 3

How do I harvest my worm compost without the worms?

Accepted Answer

There are a few methods to harvest worm compost without the worms:

The "bottom tray" method: This method involves removing the bottom tray of the wormery and placing it on top of the top tray and removing the lid. This will allow the worms to migrate downwards. The compost in the bottom tray can then be harvested without disturbing the worms.
The "windrow" method: This method involves creating a "windrow" (a long, narrow pile) of the worm compost on top of a piece of plastic sheeting. The worms will migrate to one end of the windrow, leaving the compost at the other end ready for harvest.
The "casting" method: This method involves allowing the worms to work the compost for a longer period of time, until the castings (the worm manure) have dropped to the bottom of the tray, where they can be harvested without worms.
The "screen" method: This method involves using a screen or sifter to separate the compost from the worms. The worms are placed in a new container with fresh bedding and food scraps, while the compost can be collected and used.

Question 4

Why have I got Fruit Flies in my Subpod?

Accepted Answer

Fruit flies can enter Subpod when you are adding your food waste. They can also get into the system before your food scraps are added to Subpod if there’s a loose lid.

The more thoroughly you stir your food waste into the bedding, the less likely you will have a problem with fruit flies and other insects. If you add more moist bedding (carbon), it’s easier to bury the food waste thoroughly. Make sure that the larger holes on the sides of your Subpod are below the soil line in your garden bed.

Any fruit fly larvae that finds its way into the Subpod will slowly diminish over time if the above techniques are used.

Question 5

Why is my wormery not producing worm tea?

Accepted Answer

Worm composters, also known as worm bins or vermicomposters, produce a liquid known as worm tea or leachate. This liquid is a nutrient-rich byproduct of the composting process that can be used as a fertiliser for plants. If your worm composter is not producing any liquid, there are a few possible reasons:

Insufficient moisture: The worm bin should be kept moist, but not waterlogged. If the bin is too dry, the worms will not be able to break down the organic matter and produce leachate.
Lack of food: The worms will not produce leachate if there is not enough food for them to consume. Make sure you are providing the worms with a steady supply of food scraps. This is the most usual problem.
Not enough worms: Leachate is produced as a by-product of the worms breaking down organic matter. If there are not enough worms in the bin, there may not be enough activity to produce leachate.
The liquid is being absorbed: If the bedding material is not draining well and is too compacted, the liquid will be absorbed by the bedding instead of draining out. Make sure to check the drainage and aeration of your worm bin.
The liquid is evaporating: If the bin is open or not covered properly, the liquid will evaporate before it can be collected. Make sure the bin is properly covered or use a worm composter that has a spigot for easy collection of the liquid.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 6

How and when to harvest the compost/castings?

Accepted Answer

After 2-3 months or when your Subpod is full, you can harvest your Subpod compost.

Question 7

How much food waste can be processed in Subpod?

Accepted Answer

Once your worm population builds up you can feed your Subpod 30L (7.9 gal.) or 15kgs (34 lb) of food waste per week.

Question 8

What are the dimensions/specifications and capacity of the Subpod?

Accepted Answer

The external dimensions are: 750mm (29.5 in.) L x 450mm (17.7 in.) W x 430mm (16.9 in.) H, including the lid. The internal dimensions are: 710mm (28 in.) L x 410mm (16.1in.) W x 290mm (11.5 in.) H below the soil level.

A total internal volume of 115L, (30 gallons), which gives a total composting volume of 84L (22 gallons) due to the soil level and air flow area at the top.

Question 9

How many worms do I need per Subpod?

Accepted Answer

You'll need a minimum of 1000 worms, but 2000 is better. If you really want to kick start your Subpod, you can add up to 4000 worms.

Question 10

What to do with worms that have gone down into the sump/ bottom section?

Accepted Answer

Sometimes some of your worms migrate to the sump which is mostly more distressing for you than them to be honest. They do explore their surroundings and they are usually fine in there as long as the liquid is draining reasonably regularly. The reason they go down to the sump on occasion isn’t really known – in winter it’s possible they are heading down there to keep warm as in their natural environment they do burrow deeper to below where the ground is frozen. Either way generally this isn’t a concern. If it is a real problem add some crumpled up newspaper and leave the tap open.