Question 1

How do I harvest my worm compost without the worms?

Accepted Answer

There are a few methods to harvest worm compost without the worms:

The "bottom tray" method: This method involves removing the bottom tray of the wormery and placing it on top of the top tray and removing the lid. This will allow the worms to migrate downwards. The compost in the bottom tray can then be harvested without disturbing the worms.
The "windrow" method: This method involves creating a "windrow" (a long, narrow pile) of the worm compost on top of a piece of plastic sheeting. The worms will migrate to one end of the windrow, leaving the compost at the other end ready for harvest.
The "casting" method: This method involves allowing the worms to work the compost for a longer period of time, until the castings (the worm manure) have dropped to the bottom of the tray, where they can be harvested without worms.
The "screen" method: This method involves using a screen or sifter to separate the compost from the worms. The worms are placed in a new container with fresh bedding and food scraps, while the compost can be collected and used.

Question 2

Why is my wormery not producing worm tea?

Accepted Answer

Worm composters, also known as worm bins or vermicomposters, produce a liquid known as worm tea or leachate. This liquid is a nutrient-rich byproduct of the composting process that can be used as a fertiliser for plants. If your worm composter is not producing any liquid, there are a few possible reasons:

Insufficient moisture: The worm bin should be kept moist, but not waterlogged. If the bin is too dry, the worms will not be able to break down the organic matter and produce leachate.
Lack of food: The worms will not produce leachate if there is not enough food for them to consume. Make sure you are providing the worms with a steady supply of food scraps. This is the most usual problem.
Not enough worms: Leachate is produced as a by-product of the worms breaking down organic matter. If there are not enough worms in the bin, there may not be enough activity to produce leachate.
The liquid is being absorbed: If the bedding material is not draining well and is too compacted, the liquid will be absorbed by the bedding instead of draining out. Make sure to check the drainage and aeration of your worm bin.
The liquid is evaporating: If the bin is open or not covered properly, the liquid will evaporate before it can be collected. Make sure the bin is properly covered or use a worm composter that has a spigot for easy collection of the liquid.

For more help with your wormery and frequently asked questions pop on over to https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/pages/wormery-faqs. Or if you’re keen to get started or order a wormery please visit https://www.wigglywigglers.co.uk/collections/worm-composting

Question 3

My worms are eating the moisture mat, is this okay?

Accepted Answer

Your moisture mat is just there to encourage your worms to work in the surface of the waste and as it is biodegradable the worms will eventually eat it. If the moisture mat is disintegrating quickly you can add more waste.

Question 4

How much food waste can be processed in Subpod?

Accepted Answer

Once your worm population builds up you can feed your Subpod 30L (7.9 gal.) or 15kgs (34 lb) of food waste per week.

Question 5

What are the dimensions/specifications and capacity of the Subpod?

Accepted Answer

The external dimensions are: 750mm (29.5 in.) L x 450mm (17.7 in.) W x 430mm (16.9 in.) H, including the lid. The internal dimensions are: 710mm (28 in.) L x 410mm (16.1in.) W x 290mm (11.5 in.) H below the soil level.

A total internal volume of 115L, (30 gallons), which gives a total composting volume of 84L (22 gallons) due to the soil level and air flow area at the top.

Question 6

How many worms do I need per Subpod?

Accepted Answer

You'll need a minimum of 1000 worms, but 2000 is better. If you really want to kick start your Subpod, you can add up to 4000 worms.

Question 7

What to do with worms that have gone down into the sump/ bottom section?

Accepted Answer

Sometimes some of your worms migrate to the sump which is mostly more distressing for you than them to be honest. They do explore their surroundings and they are usually fine in there as long as the liquid is draining reasonably regularly. The reason they go down to the sump on occasion isn’t really known – in winter it’s possible they are heading down there to keep warm as in their natural environment they do burrow deeper to below where the ground is frozen. Either way generally this isn’t a concern. If it is a real problem add some crumpled up newspaper and leave the tap open.

Question 8

How does Subpod differ from other worm composting systems?

Accepted Answer

It allows you to compost directly in your garden allowing the worms and microbes to distribute nutrients into the soil.

Because you’re composting in the soil, your system is insulated → which means you can compost in a variety of climates

Subpod sits 90% below ground, which deters pests and predators

The worms are able to move freely between the Subpod module and the surrounding garden which creates a worm friendly environment.

The Subpod has a unique modular design, which allows multiple systems to be installed in one bed and cater to larger volumes of waste.

Question 9

How and when to harvest the compost/castings?

Accepted Answer

After 2-3 months or when your Subpod is full, you can harvest your Subpod compost.

Question 10

How to look after my Subpod in extreme heat?

Accepted Answer

The Subpod lid is insulated to keep out direct heat from the sun, but if you live in an extremely hot climate, we recommend installing your Subpod in a shady location to prevent overheating or build a shade structure to protect it in the heat of the day. Keeping the worm blanket wet/moist will also help to keep your Subpod cool.